Welcome back for the LAST day of the Hampton Jean Jacket Sewalong! Today, we’re sewing/attaching the back tabs, sewing the buttonholes, and adding the hardware. Let’s get this baby finished!
Fold the tabs right sides together, matching the short ends. Sew together along sides at 1/2” seam allowance. Turn right side out and press.
Fold free corners in to create a point and press well. This part is a little bit finicky, but it’s a lot easier than sewing the point and trying to turn it right side out.
Topstitch perimeter of tab 1/8” from sewn edge. Sew a buttonhole 1/2” from end of point.
Place the tab face down on the waistband, pointing toward center front, aligning the raw end with the tab placement line (noted on pattern piece). Sew along raw edge at 5/8” seam allowance.
Trim seam allowance to 1/4”, flip tab over and press well. Topstitch at 1/8” and 3/8” from fold, backstitching at each end.
BUTTONHOLES + HARDWARE
On each sleeve cuff, sew a buttonhole centered on the upper sleeve’s short end of the cuff, 3/8” from the edge.
On the wearer’s right side button placket, sew buttonholes:
- Centered on the short end on the of the waistband, 3/8” from edge,
- 3/8” from top and side,
- Four more buttonholes spaced evenly between the top and bottom buttonholes, all 3/8” from the center front edge.
Carefully cut through each buttonhole opening.
TIP: If your machine is struggling with buttonholes, I recommend using only regular thread.
NOTE: If you want to wash your jacket with stones to soften it up a bit, do it now before attaching the hardware!
On the wearer’s left side button placket:
Using the buttonholes, mark horizontally where each button will go. On these horizontal lines, mark a dot 1” from the center front edge.
(Yes, I did add a cool little zigzag around my buttonholes, no the pattern doesn’t call for that–I have seen a similar zigzag on some RTW jean jackets, so I added it for a little extra awesome.)
On the lower sleeve end of each cuff, use the buttonhole to mark horizontally where each button will go. On these horizontal lines, mark a dot 5/8” from the placket edge. The cuff’s edges should overlap each other by 1”.
Using the end of each buttonhole, continue to mark the placement of the buttons for the top front pockets and the back tabs.
Using a nail/awl/sharp pair of scissors, poke a hole through each dot. Use this hole to place the button post through from the back. Place the button face down on a hard, smooth, non-denting surface (I recommend a jeweler’s bench, mini anvil, or the back of a cast iron skillet covered by a thin, soft cloth) and hammer the post in from the back until it is secure.
Repeat for each remaining button: there are six on the front button placket, one on each sleeve cuff, one for each waistband tab, one next to each waistband tab (placement noted on pattern piece), and one for each top pocket.
Please note that you may need to trim the posts that come with your buttons. These particular buttons are from Taylor Tailor, and I find I always have to trim them. To check the post length, place the post through the fabric and hold the button next to it. If the post it taller than the button, then you’ll need to trim the excess away with some wire cutters. Otherwise, the too-long post won’t “grab” the button properly and it will pop off.
Do a happy dance, throw it in the washer and dryer a few times, and then put it on and never take it off! 😉 I’m super proud of anyone getting to this point–I hope you’ve found that making a jean jacket isn’t really all that hard if you’re just willing to put some time in. (No harder than a button-down shirt, though, right??)
I also want to throw out a huge thank you for all of the incredible support and positive feedback since releasing this pattern. I knew the sewing world needed a classic jean jacket pattern, and you have confirmed it for me. Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU!