Alina Sewing and Design

Good morning! How are your jackets coming along? We’re going to tackle the collar today, and then we’ll focus on the sleeves tomorrow. Let’s knock it out!

HANGING LOOP

Turn 1/4” under along each long edge. Fold the loop in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, matching the two folded edges you just created. Topstitch 1/8” from the folds.

Place the two raw ends of the loop on the notches on the back neckline. Baste in place.

COLLAR

On one of the collars, turn the bottom (concave side with notches) edge under 5/8”.

Place the two collars right sides together and sew along the top and sides, maintaining the fold you just pressed into one of the collars. Trim and notch seam allowances, clip corners, and turn the collar right sides out. Press collar well.

Place the jacket and collar right sides together, with the folded collar facing out. Pin in place, matching the front edges of the collar to the free corners at center front and the two notches near center back. Sew together along the neckline.

Flip the collar up and press the seam allowances toward the collar. Tuck them into the collar, underneath the pressed long edge. Press and pin this area well.

(TIP: Use Wash Away Wonder Tape to keep the layers aligned while you topstitch.)

From the inside of the collar, topstitch 1/8” from edge all the way around the collar, starting and stopping at center back. Backstitch at the beginning and end.

If you would like to have double topstitching on your collar, sew another line of topstitching 3/8″ from outside edges of collar, backstitching at each end.

And that’s it! One step closer to a finished jacket. This last shot is a great example of why I recommend using regular thread that matches the topstitching color in your bobbin. The bobbin thread is highly visible on the bottom of the collar (if you ever have it flipped up), the bottom of the cuffs (if you roll the sleeves), and the inside of the front placket (it will naturally turn out near the collar). If your bobbin thread matches, it’s not noticeable that you’ve used regular thread.

I’ll be back tomorrow to tackle the sleeves!

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