Alina Sewing and Design

Happy Monday! I’m back to continue the Hampton Jean Jacket Sewalong. I left you on Friday with homework to finish everything up to the front welt pockets. Today, we’re picking up with finishing the rest of the jacket front. Tomorrow, we’ll put the fronts and back together and the shell of the jacket will be complete!
Finish all raw edges of top pocket lining.

Next, use the lining’s pattern piece to trace the pocket shape on the right side of the panels. Make sure that the markings are centered across the center panel. (You can see that I’ve already distressed this upper pocket area, something you will want to do before you add the following topstitching.)

TIP: To help line up the pocket lining exactly, I like to use pins to mark the corners on the right side of the fabric.

From the back, I use the pins to align the pocket lining. Place the lining behind the front panels, aligning the top between the notches on panels, and bottom lining up with the pins (right side of lining to wrong side of panels). Then, either pin the lining in place (from the right side of the panels) OR use Wash Away Wonder Tape to secure the edges of the pocket.

Topstitch from the right side, catching the pocket lining below by stitching 1/8-1/4” inside of your traced lines. Take your time here to get the topstitching straight and symmetrical.

Assemble pocket flap by sewing two pocket flaps together, right sides together. Trim corners, turn right sides out, press, and topstitch 1/8” and 3/8” from sewn edges. Sew buttonhole (placement indicated on pattern piece).

Place pocket flap over pocket, centered between notches. Baste in place along the top edge.

With right sides together, place bottom edge of front yoke and top edges of front panels together. Stitch together and press seam allowance toward yoke. Finish and topstitch.

TIP:  I prefer to sew a mock flat fell seam here. If you choose to sew a true flat fell seam here, make sure to trim the pocket flap seam allowance to 1/4” to make this easier.

Attach fusible interfacing to wrong side of the center front edge. Fold raw edge of center front under 5/8” and press.

Fold another 1-5/8” under to form the front facing (this will line up exactly with the edge of the interfacing) and press well. The edge of the pocket bag will lay underneath.

Fold the facing back around to the right side so that the two notches meet, jacket front and facing right sides together. Sew the top corner (5/8″ seam allowance) from the fold to the notches. Cut into the notches right up to, but not through, the line of stitching.

Trim the corner’s seam allowance, turn right sides out, and press well. The front facing you created in the previous step should fall back into place, and the remaining seam allowance along the neckline of the facing should be pressed up.

Topstitch from the right side 1/8” and 1-1/2” from folded edge, catching the edge of the facing underneath.

When topstitching along the folded edge, you will start above the corner you created in the previous step. Make sure the edge of the pocket bag is caught underneath the facing.

You have completed one jacket front! Repeat for opposite side.

See you tomorrow!


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