Alina Sewing and Design

Happy Friday, all! Today we tackle the front welt pockets. Before you get too worried….DON’T. Welt pockets aren’t hard. They’re made with a few straight lines and a bit of pressing.

Let’s get into what’s involved.

Start by transferring rectangle markings on pattern pieces to the welt pocket interfacings, welt rectangles, and pocket bags.

Finish the raw edges of the top and sides of the welt rectangles. On the bottom edge, turn 5/8” under to the wrong side.

Iron the welt pocket interfacing to the wrong side of front panel 3, aligning rectangle markings.

I want to stop here to be very clear about the pocket bags and how they line up with the front jacket, as that is the only “hard” or confusing part about the welt pockets. The pocket bags themselves are mirror images because they fold over on themselves. But, you will need the markings to be mirror images, too. You will end up with what is pictured in the above photo. The bottom left bag is what will be attached to the wearer’s left side jacket, and the top left goes on the wearer’s right side. You’ll end up with what you see on the right side of the above photo. In the photos of this post, I am working exclusively on the left side of the jacket. I hope that helps!

Stack the pocket bag (wrong side up), front panels (right side up), and welt pocket rectangle (wrong side up), aligning all rectangle markings. I recommend sticking a pin through all of the layers to ensure each corner matches up exactly.

Stitch along the long edges of the rectangle markings, stopping and starting exactly at the corners. (This is very important!) Here’s a view of what you should see on the back side, too.

Backstitch at the beginning and end of each line to secure. You will not be stitching across the short ends of the rectangle—leave those open.

Press the top and bottom sections of the welt pocket rectangle toward each line you have just stitched.

With sharp fabric scissors, clip along the center of the rectangle through all layers, stopping 1/2” from each end. From this line, clip diagonally toward each corner, clipping to, but not through, the stitching line. The closer you get to this stitching line, the crisper the corners will be.

Now, turn the welt pocket rectangle to the inside of the front panels, straightening everything to a perfect open rectangle; press well.

Turn the front panels over (wrong side up). Fold the bottom section of the welt rectangle up (it will cover the opening when you do this) and press the seam allowance underneath open.

Fold the bottom of this section back down, creating a fold that aligns with the top of the opening.

Don’t get too aggressive here; you want the top of this fold to sit just inside of the opening. Press well and make these folds sharp. Make sure you are maintaining the welt rectangle’s pressed bottom edge from the first step of this section.

Turn everything over (right side up). With the welt laying flat, fold the sides of the front panels and pocket bag toward the center, pulling them taut.

This will reveal small triangles. Stitch across the triangles, securing them to the welt pocket rectangle underneath. Make sure that you have maintained the pressed folds of the welt rectangle.

Stitch as close as you can to the front panel and pocket bag fabric without catching it. Repeat for triangles on opposite end.

With everything still right side up, topstitch around the entire welt, 1/8″ from each side, then add a bar tack along each short end. Click here for more information on sewing bar tacks. (Also notice that I have distressed the pocket area prior to topstitching.)

Flip the front panels over (wrong side up). Now, move the front panels out of the way and, with the welt rectangle and pocket bag laying flat, topstitch the bottom of the welt rectangle to the pocket bag only, 1/8” from the bottom folded edge.

Repeat for the top edge, stitching it to the pocket bag only.

Now, fold the pocket bag over on itself, right sides together, matching all raw edges. Stitch the tops together, using a 5/8” seam allowance. Finish this edge.

Baste the center front and bottom edges together—these will get caught in the front facing and the waistband later on.

Baste the bottom of the pocket bag to the bottom of the front panels.

You have completed one welt pocket! Repeat for opposite side.

I think I’ve given you enough to work on through the weekend, so on Monday, we’ll pick up again with finishing the front jacket assembly. We’re almost ready to put it all together and you’ll feel very accomplished at that point!

Have a great weekend, friends!


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