Good morning, friends! Today, we start sewing. I have mentioned several times that this pattern is not difficult. It’s a lot of seams, but once you get into a groove, things start to go pretty quickly (though, quickly is a relative term, I suppose, so take this with a grain of salt).
Today, we sew the back and front panels. By the end of this post, you’ll have three large sections of the jacket done!
Place back center panel and one back side panel right sides together. Sew together and press seam allowance toward center back. Finish with a flat felled seam or mock flat felled seam. Topstitch at 1/16-1/8” and 3/8” from seam. Repeat for second side panel. Please note that I am distressing every seam after forming the flat felled seams but before topstitching.
NOTE: From here on out, I will simply say “finish and topstitch seam”; this means to either serge/finish the raw edge or create a flat felled seam, then topstitch at 1/8” and 3/8” from seam. For more information on how to sew a flat felled seam and topstitching stitch lengths, please see this post.
If you would like to add a label to the inside of the back yoke, I recommend doing so now. (Haaaa…which I didn’t do, so do as I say, not as I do.)
Place completed back panel and back yoke right sides together. Sew together and press seam allowance toward yoke. Finish and topstitch seam.
The back is finished! Let’s move to the front panels.
Finish top edge of panel 2 with a zigzag stitch or serger. Turn this top edge down 1”, press, topstitch 1/8” away from fold.
Placing right sides together, align the bottom edges and sew panels 1 and 2 together, starting at the bottom. There should be a 1″ difference at the top.
Press seam allowance toward panel 1, finish and topstitch.
Transfer welt pocket placement marking to the right side of front panel 3.
Placing right sides together, align the bottom edges and sew panels 2 and 3 together, starting at the bottom. There should be a 1″ difference at the top. Press seam allowance toward panel 3, finish and topstitch.
You have completed one set of front panels! Repeat for the second set, and I’ll be back tomorrow to talk welt pockets (they go pretty fast, don’t worry).
