Before we get to any sewing in the Hampton Jean Jacket Sewalong, let’s go over how to sew flat felled seams. This pattern is designed for inside flat-felled seams, which means that all raw edges are enclosed on the inside of the jacket. This is completely optional–you may use mock flat felled seams, which I will go over at the end of this post. There are a few seams where I do not recommend attempting a flat felled seam and I tell you that in the pattern. But, for sewing all of the panels together, it works well, looks professional, and is very durable.
Let’s jump in!
FLAT FELLED SEAMS
1. Stitch seam per directions, right sides together, using a 2.5mm stitch length.
2. Press seam allowances to directed side. Whichever seam allowance ends up on the bottom, trim to 1/4″.
3. Wrap the non-trimmed seam allowance around the trimmed seam allowance, folding it under as you go. Your fold should be on the side you originally pressed the seam allowances toward. Press this fold well and pin in place on the right side of the fabric.
TIP: As an alternative to pinning, I recommend using Wash Away Wonder Tape* to secure your flat felled seams prior to topstitching. This does a great job of preventing any raw edges from escaping, and it keeps everything exactly where you want it while you topstitch! (And while you’re distressing before you topstitch, if you go that route.)
*See the supplies post for more info about Wonder Tape.
4. With topstitching thread, stitch a line of topstitching (3.5-4mm stitch length) on the right side of the fabric, 1/16-1/8″ away from the original seam. Stitch a second line of topstitching 3/8″ away from the original seam. The fully enclosed seam allowances will now be secured underneath.
MOCK FLAT FELLED SEAMS
To sew a mock flat felled seam, simply finish the raw seam allowances with a serger, press to instructed side, and topstitch as directed. I definitely recommend doing this along the front yoke seam, one of the sleeve seams, and when attaching the sleeves to the jacket.
Here’s a look at the inside of my jacket–the front yoke (where you see the pocket lining on the left), the sleeve cap seam, and the back sleeve seam are mock flat felled, while everything else is flat felled.
And as you can see from the outside, it all looks the same, so it’s completely up to you which route you go!
I’ll be back tomorrow with an in-depth look at the best ways to bleach and distress your denim. Over the course of a few weeks, I experimented with a dozen or so different tools and techniques and look forward to sharing my findings. See you tomorrow!