Happy Friday, friends! Welcome to my favorite section! We’re going to assemble the two front slash pockets.
This was the one place my testers got hung up–there are a lot of layers going on, and we’re putting wrong sides together with right sides in some places and it can be an easy place to get lost. We (my testers and I) worked through all of the ways to re-write the instructions and illustrations to make everything very, very clear, BUT I’m hoping that these photos help in case you are getting stuck.
This section is my favorite because, at the end, you have sewn two incredibly beautiful and professional slash pockets, and, if that’s not something you’ve done before, it’s a GREAT feeling.
Let’s do it!
(1) Pin slash pocket back facing to the pocket bag, wrong sides together.
(2) Attach together by sewing 1/8” from curved edge. (I am stitching right on top of my serging.)
(3) Baste around side and top to secure remaining edges of facing to pocket bag.
(1) On opposite edge of pocket bag, pin slash pocket front facing, wrong sides together, stitching 1/8″ from curved edge.
(2) Baste across the long angled edge that will become the pocket opening.
(3) Repeat for second pocket bag.
Place angled edges of pocket bag and pant/skirt front together, sandwiching facings between right side of pant/skirt front and wrong side of pocket bag. The facings should be face down and the right side of the pocket bag and pants/skirt front should be face up. Sew along the long angled edge of all three layers to attach.
(1) Pull the pant/skirt front and pocket bag apart and press the seam allowance away from pant/skirt front. **Ignore the white stuff in the seam allowance; that’s stay tape and I shot these photos before deciding to change that step in the final pattern. The facings are cut on the grain and stay tape isn’t necessary when using non-stretch fabrics!**
(2) Stitch the seam allowance and the pocket back/facing together, 1/16”-1/8” from the original seam line (making sure that you’re catching the seam allowance underneath!). This is called understitching and is done on pocket openings, necklines, and armholes to force the facing or lining to roll toward the inside of a garment. It’s only visible on the inside, as the stitching never went through the main/outside fabric.
For a full photo tutorial on how to understitch, click here.
(1) Turn the pocket bag to the inside of the pant front and, making sure that the facing rolls to the inside, press. The arrow is pointing at the line of understitching–see how it makes the facing roll cleanly to the inside?
(2+3) Topstitch 1/8” from folded edge of pocket opening.
(1) Open up the pocket bag and place right sides together (the facings should be on the outside). Sew bottom edge at 1/4″.
(2) Trim seam allowance to 1/8”, turn right sides out, and press lightly.
(3) Sew bottom edge at 1/4”, enclosing the original seam and seam allowance. This is called a french seam. Your pocket bag is now complete!
For a full French seam photo tutorial, click here.
Turn everything over and align notches. Baste pant/skirt front and pocket together at top and side to hold in place.
On top of existing pocket topstitching, topstitch starting at top and finishing 2” down. (You’ll see why later!)
You have completed one pant/skirt front! Repeat for opposite side.
YOU MADE POCKETS!!! Pat yourself on the back. It’s honestly all easier from here–scout’s honor. We’ll install the fly zip on Monday and it’s SO easy. Seriously. I’m so proud of you!
Below you will find the list of links to each blog post in the sewalong. If you have any questions, absolutely feel free to e-mail me.
- Introducing the Chi-Town Chinos Sewing Pattern
- Introducing the Chi-Town Chinos Expansion Packs
- Chi-Town Chinos Tester Round-Up
- Chi-Town Chinos Expansion Pack Tester Round-Up
- Part 1 : Inspiration
- Part 2 : Supplies
- Part 3 : Customizing the Pattern
- Part 4 : Fitting + Finishing
- Part 5 : Prepwork
- Part 6 : Front Pockets
- Part 7 : Fly Front
- Part 8 : Back Assembly + Final Fitting
- Part 8.5 : Welt Pockets
- Part 9 : Waistband, Center Back Seam, Inseam, Side Seams
- Part 10 : Belt Loops, Bar Tacks, Hemming, Front Closure