Alina Sewing and Design

Chi-Town Chinos Sewalong: Belt Loops, Hemming, Bar Tacks, and Closures

Chi-Town Chinos Sewalong: Belt Loops, Hemming, Bar Tacks, and Closures

Welcome back! We are SO CLOSE! This is the final installment of the Chi-Town Chinos Sewalong, my friends. Today we just need to finish the hem, complete the bar tacks (which also secures the belt loops), and add the waistband closure. Let’s get to it!

Chi-Town Chinos-132Arrange the five belt loop pieces where you want them and pin in place on pants. Open one folded end and stitch to the top of the waistband. I like to place them at center back, 1-2” outside of front pockets, then centered between side seams and darts, but this is completely up to you.

Chi-Town Chinos-Bar TacksSet your machine to the zigzag width and length you decided on for bar tacks. We will secure the belt loops and pockets now. Place bar tacks at the following places:

  • top outside corners of back pockets,
  • top outside corners of pocket flaps,
  • top and bottom of slash pockets,
  • tops and bottoms of belt loops.

If you need a refresher on bar tacks, view a full photo tutorial here.

Chi-Town Chinos-137Let’s move onto the hem; press bottom edge under 1/4”, then another 1”. Topstitch at 7/8” from bottom hem, catching the edge of folded hem inside. 

Chi-Town Chinos-138Sew on hook-and-bar OR button and buttonhole for front top closure.

Chi-Town Chinos-109If you added pocket flaps, sew buttons onto back pockets.

THAT’S IT! We’re done!!!
Chi-Town Chinos-FINISHED

I hope that you feel extremely proud of yourself (because I am proud of you). I also hope you feel that, with enough tenacity and willingness to learn, you can tackle anything you want to sew (because I believe you can).

Feel free to e-mail me at hello[at]alinadesignco[dot]com if you ever have any questions about sewing or this pattern (or others I release in the future). I’m still learning, too, but I’ll absolutely help you to the best of my ability–and I would say I’m not an expert at sewing, but I AM an expert at my own pattern(s). 😉

Happy sewing, my friends! Go wear those chinos proudly!!!


Chi-Town Chinos Sewalong: Side Seams, Waistband, Center Back Seam, Inseam

Chi-Town Chinos Sewalong: Side Seams, Waistband, Center Back Seam, Inseam

Welcome back! Today we are putting all of our big pieces together!

Let’s get to it.


Chi-Town Chinos-Side Seams2Side seams: Place front and back pant/skirt right sides together and sew side seams. Backstitch and stitch a few extra times over the bottom of the slash pocket to make it extra secure. Finish these edges and press toward back. Topstitch at 1/8” from seam, starting at waistband and ending at hem. Make sure you’ve caught the seam allowance in this topstitching.

Chi-Town Chinos-Attaching Waistband FacingWaistband facing: Before closing up the back, we will attach the waistband facings. 

We will be attaching the raw (not folded) long side of the facings to the pants. “Left” waistband facing goes on the wearer’s left and “right” waistband facing goes on the wearer’s right. The 1/2″ you pressed under in section one will go in the front; when unfolded, there will be 1/2″ overhang. (Center back is indicated on the pattern pieces.)

Placing right sides together, pin and sew the waistband facings to the pants on their respective sides. Understitch, then grade seam allowance on each facing.

Chi-Town Chinos-CB SeamCenter back seam: Align the center back seam from notches to waistband facings, right sides together. Pin along the final location you decided on during fitting. Pin carefully at the waistband, double-checking that both sides line up with each other (see bottom photo) and sew. Trim seam allowance down to 3/8” and finish the entire center back seam (not pictured because I want you to read the next sentence before finishing!). If you’d like to leave the back extension as-is for future alteration purposes, clip at the notches and finish below the notches, pressing the extension apart above the notches. Hold the extension out of the way so that it doesn’t get caught in the topstitching in the next step.

Chi-Town Chinos-127Center Back Topstitching: Press finished seam toward the right, flip over and topstitch 1/8” left from center seam, catching seam allowance underneath.

Chi-Town Chinos-128Waistband Topstitching: Roll waistband facing to the inside, making sure the folded ends at the fly roll to the inside. Press and pin in place.

Starting at the inside fly corner, topstitch 1/8” from top edge. Continue around to opposite side, turn at fly and stitch down 1-1/8” from top (1″ from the stitching you just placed across the top), sew back across the length of the waistband, making sure you are catching the bottom edge of the facing underneath. Turn again and end back at starting point. Backstitch at beginning and end to secure. 

Starting out like this will feel awkward because the bulk of the garment will be to the right of the needle at the beginning, but it will place start/stop point on the lesser-seen inside fly. Be careful and go slow here—you’re working with a lot of layers and bulk.

Chi-Town Chinos-129Look at that beautiful topstitching! One thing that makes this pattern unique is that there’s no separate waistband piece on the outside. I love how seamless (uhh, literally… *symbol clang*) it looks once the facing is topstitched into place.

Chi-Town Chinos-InseamsInseams:
(1) Making sure center seams are aligned, pin front and back inseams, right sides together.
Sew, finish seam, and press toward back. 

That’s it for today! We only have one more section, but that’s just the minor finishing details. For all intensive purposes, you have constructed a pair of pants!!! I’m so extremely proud.


In case you missed it, see the full schedule below!

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